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Overview
The Valdes Peninsula and
the surrounding area are without doubt the whale watching highlight in the
Southern Cone and few places on the planet can match the experience
available here. Southern right whales are the main attraction but in
addition the Orcas of the peninsula are world famous for the hunting
technique they use to catch sea lion and seal pups (they beach themselves
temporarily in order to catch their prey). Dusky dolphins can also be
seen here. This blog has up-to-date information about whale watching in the area.
Seeing the Southern Right whales
The whales arrive here
around mid-May and remain until early December. August-September-October are
good months to visit. They are present in large number and sightings are
guaranteed. There are different places where whales can be watched. The 3
main options are listed below.
Puerto Madryn - this
is the main town in the area and the base for most tourists visiting the
Valdes Peninsula (1 hour away). It is a pleasant town situated on a large
bay. Whales can be seen in the town bay most days, sometimes in good
numbers. They can be seen from the beach but the best viewing spot is the
centrally located pier. The best time of the year to see whales here is from
May until September. Sometimes the whales will be quite distant but often
they are reasonably close to the pier. Occasionally, if you are very patient
and lucky a whale may approach the pier. If this happens the views are simply unbelievable. There is no boat-based viewing in
the town.
Playa Doradillo -
this beach is 17km north of Puerto Madryn. It is accessible by bicycle, private transport or with a short tour available in Puerto Madryn.
Viewing is done from the shore. It is special because the whales here are so
close to the beach. The best time of the year to see whales here is from May
until September. The views are incredible and the number of whales can be
high. There is also a viewing platform on top of the small cliffs at the end
of the beach. This allows the viewer to look down into the water and
possibly see the whole whale if weather conditions are favourable.

Playa Doradillo
Puerto Piramides -
this village is located on the Valdes Peninsula, about 1.5 hours away from Puerto Madryn. It is the only location where boat trips are available to see the
whales which linger here until December. Trips are offered by 6 different operators (Hydrosport,
Punta Ballenas,
Southern Spirit,
Tito Bottazzi,
Peke Sosa and
Whales Argentina) and
depart very regularly in season. Most visitors take a day tour of the
whole peninsula departing from Puerto Madryn. A stop will be included in
Puerto Piramides and a 1.5 hour boat trip taken with whichever boat operator
the tour agency works with. If you are here mainly for the whales this
option is quite restrictive. It is possible to take boats independently by
visiting Puerto Piramides for the day (daily public bus leaves Madryn
9.45am, departs Piramides 6.30pm) or by staying in the village for a few
days (good accommodation is available). Boat trips are quite cheap,
about £18. The boats here are all good quality and of similar
specifications. However, Whales Argentina operate a larger catamaran. The
extra height of this boat provides more viewing options but it does not
operate in all conditions and sometimes it will be fully booked by a tour
group. Flamenco Tour is an agency
in Puerto Madryn that works with Whales Argentina.
HI Patagonia is a great
hotel/hostel to base yourself in Puerto Madryn. Gaston, the owner, used to
be a guide on the whale boats. He is a terrific host and a great source of
information.

A Southern Right whale
blowing off Puerto Piramides, Peninsula Valdes.
Seeing the Orcas
The Orcas off the
Valdes Peninsula are world famous and heavily promoted in the area. This is
because of their spectacular hunting technique, not because they are present
here in vast numbers or are particularly easy to see. They are found around
the coast of the peninsula year-round although the famous attacks are only
seen when seal and sea lion pups are present. The attack hot-spots
are Caleta Valdes (September, October, November), Punta Delgada (September,
October, November) and Punta Norte (February, March, April). High tides
greatly increase the chances of attacks. Viewing is
land-based. Tours of the peninsula usually visit the more accessible Caleta
Valdes and Punta Delgada. During Orca season some tours may go to Punta Norte.
However, the time spent at these locations as part of an organised tour is
not long and if the visit does not coincide with high tide chances of seeing
Orcas are moderate. To have a good chance of seeing Orcas time will be
needed and ideally private transport available so that time can be spent at
the most likely areas. There is no public transport to Punta Norte or Caleta
Valdes.
Towards the end of the
season when whale numbers are lower and the mothers are weaker after feeding
the calves, the Orcas might turn their attention to the Right whales. For
the last 3 years, right at the end of the whale watching season, Orcas have
been seen pursuing adult whales.
Seeing the Dusky dolphins
The Right whales will have
departed by December. The focus of boat trips from December to March will
then switch to Dusky dolphins. The logistics are the same as for the whales
although demand for boat trips may be less at this time of year and
frequency of sightings less than for the whales. Time will also be spent
viewing other wildlife during these trips.
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